Ama Dablam Expedition – 29 Days

Manthali to Lukla Flight
The airport in Manthali, Ramechhap is about 4 to 5 hours away from Kathmandu. Wake up at 2:30 am and take an escorted shuttle to Manthali airport on a shared tourist vehicle. Board a 25-minute flight to Lukla. Manthali to Lukla flight is relevant during peak trekking months.

Kathmandu to Lukla Flight
Wake up at 5/6 am. Our staff will escort you to the airport’s domestic terminal in Kathmandu. Board a 35-minute flight to Lukla. Kathmandu to Lukla flight is relevant during the off-season of trekking.

Prepare your luggage for the trek the day before the flight. You will be arriving at the Tenzing Hillary Airport early in the morning. Breakfast in Lukla. Porters will meet group in Lukla and are assigned to carry luggage. For every two clients, one porter is assigned.

Today we trek to Phakding. The trail is straightforward. We head out of Lukla and follow the Dudh Koshi River with a downhill. The route connects to the Namche Bazaar trail, just above Chaurikharka (2,713 m). Continuing, we come across the small village of Ghat. After a brisk hike, we arrive at Phakding.

We begin the five hour trek along the banks of the Dudh Kosi, crossing this majestic river many times on exciting suspension bridges laden with prayer flags. After entering Sagamartha National Park, the trail climbs steeply with breathtaking views. Namche Bazaar, known as the “Gateway to Everest,” is home to many quality restaurants, hotels, lodges, shops, money exchange, internet cafe and a bakery. Namche (3,440 m) is one of the biggest villages along the whole Everest trail.

The trek continues along the rushing glacial waters of the Dudh Kosi, with magnificent views of the mountains. We trek to an altitude of 3,860 meters today. After five hours we’ll reach Tengboche, where the local monastery can be seen. Inside the monastery are incredibly ornate wall hangings, a twenty foot sculpture of Buddha, and the musical instruments and robes of the Lamas. The group will be taken to observe a prayer ceremony in either the evening or morning, depending on how the day’s trekking progressed.

From Tengboche, the trail drops to Debuche crosses another exciting suspension bridge on the Imja Khola and climbs to Pangboche village.

Base camp is located in an idyllic spot from which the majority of the route is visible. At an altitude of about 4,600 m, it provides a comfortable escape from the rigors of the climb. Our porters deposit their loads and leave us here for the next three weeks, with only our Sirdar, Sherpas and culinary staff remaining.

We do not provide a day-to-day itinerary for the climb period, as this will be determined by the expedition leader and members. Guides will take a flexible approach based on what fits with climbers’ and their own experience. Typically, the team will spend a few days at the base camp organizing food, practicing rope skills, and acclimatizing before moving above the base camp. It is normal to ‘tag,’ or spend at least one night in Camp 1 (5,700m), as part of any acclimatization schedule before returning to the base camp, resting, and preparing for a summit push.

Ama Dablam climb via southwest ridge
After leaving the base camp old grassy moraine ridges are followed roughly eastwards to a broad saddle 5,150m from where we can see the Mingbo La. From the saddle we ascend easily northwards until the ground steepens at the start of a large boulder field. We may place an advanced base camp at 5,400m below the boulder field. The route continues north around the base of the boulder field, and then follows cairns upward to the toe of the southwest ridge. At the end of the boulder field, slabs are crossed and then a short gully ascended, allowing access to the ridge proper in a very exposed position. Easy scrambling on the east side of the ridge leads quickly to Camp 1. There are four or five tent platforms.

From Camp 1 we contour around the snowy bowl (possible alternative site for Camp 1) until we are below two rock fingers. The east side of the ridge is followed, climbing easy mixed ground until a short pitch of “severe” standard leads to the ridge proper. The ridge is narrow in places, with difficult turns on the east side, until the second tension traverse leads to two pitches of “very severe” standard. The route continues on the crest of the ridge for a short distance until we are forced via an awkward step onto the west side of the ridge. The crest of the ridge is regained and easily navigable roads followed to the start of a traverse on the east face, which leads to the Yellow Tower. This 15 meter pitch, just below Camp 2, is one of the hardest pitches on the climb at HVS (5.8) standard. A short section of ridge now leads to Camp 2 (5,900m). Camp 2 has very limited tent space (three or four tent platforms) and is extremely exposed. It is sometimes only used to store equipment dump, with expeditions choosing to go from Camp 1 to Camp 3 in a single push.

From Camp 2, the climb skirts a red rock bluff on the east and, after a step down, follows the snow ridge directly to a tricky traverse east. This leads to a gully between the Grey Tower and the lower rock buttress. We climb the gully until a very exposed traverse line is reached on the west side of the ridge. A short snow slope is ascended, allowing us to reach the start of the Mushroom Ridge. Following this typically involves negotiating some steep snow sections, until Camp 3 (6,300m) is reached.

The route climbs the snow and ice slope directly above Camp 3 and to the right hand side of Dablam. We continue to skirt Dablam on the right, then moving west to gain a small snowfield below the Burgschrund. The Burgschrund is crossed and then the climb heads directly to the ice crest above. This is followed by a magnificent climb to the summit.

We descend six hours to Namche Bazaar (3,440 m). If we are lucky, we’ll arrive at market time in Namche. Regardless, there is always fabulous food to be found, including delicious espresso, yak steaks, and chocolate cake with frosting! This market is where lowland porters bearing supplies meet the highland Sherpa and Tibetan people who have journeyed over high passes from many miles away to trade food and supplies for their houses and villages. Enjoy and celebrate your expedition.

We return to Lukla (2,840 m), where the trip began, after a six hour trek. We’ll take time to reflect on the trek as a group, and the personal achievements of all who took part. You’ll also have plenty of time to explore the town.

The flight from Lukla to Manthali is 25 minutes flight. After that, it is about a 4 to 6-hour drive to Kathmandu. You’ll be transferred to the hotel in Kathmandu on a shared tourist vehicle. This is relevant for the peak trekking season from March to November.

Flight to Kathmandu
The flight to Lukla takes about 35 minutes. After arriving at the airport, you will be transferred to the hotel in Kathmandu via a shared tourist vehicle. This is relevant for the months outside peak trekking months.

If you would like to spend more time in Nepal, we offer trips to the popular destinations in Nepal. Pokhara tour, Chitwan National Park, Kathmandu Cultural Heritage Tours, etc., are some of our popular Nepal trips.