Kanchenjunga Base Camp Trek – 29 Days

Pashupatinath Temple
Pashupatinath Temple is one of the most significant Hindu temples of Lord Shiva in the world, located on the banks of the Bagmati River. Though you are not allowed to go inside the temple as it is strictly for Hindus only, you can clearly see the temple and the activities from the eastern bank of the Bagmati River. It is a square two-tiered pagoda temple built on a single-tier plinth which is famous all over the world.

Boudhanath Stupa
Boudhananath is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Kathmandu. It was built in the 5th century with four pairs of eyes of Lord Buddha in four cardinal directions keeping an eternal watch over the people and their doings. You will find Buddhist pilgrims from Tibet going round the stupa spinning the prayer wheels.

Bhaktapur Durbar Square
Visit the Bhaktapur Durbar Square, the Royal Residential Quarter of Bhupatindra Malla, famous five-storied temple of Nyatapola in Pagoda style Batsala temple, Bhairavnath temple, Duttatraya temple, Pujari Muth and Palace of 55 windows.

The rest of our time in Kathmandu is free for further exploration and some last-minute shopping in Thamel area for trekking essentials.

Pick up from the hotel in Kathmandu and take afternoon flight to Biratnagar with your guide from Kathmandu and transfer to guesthouse.

A half-hour flight will take us to Suketar Airport in Taplejung where we will be welcomed by the ground staff and porters. The crew will arrange your gear as you have lunch after the flight. In the afternoon we start with an easy 2- to 3-hour walk along the ridgeline to Lali Kharka, a grazing area.

After traversing the hillside a short way, we descend to the village of Pakora along the Phawa Khola, crossing a suspension bridge before beginning the steep climb up towards Kunjuri. Lunch will be taken somewhere below Kunjuri. The afternoon’s walk takes us on a short distance over the crest of the ridge to our campsite at Khesewa. We get our first views of Kanchenjunga and should be able to clearly make out the south and main summit along with Yalung Kang.

Today the path covers steep hillside through terraced fields high above the Kabbeli Khola. There are some ups and downs crossing side valleys but there are many shady spots to rest. After lunch, we pass the village of Anpan, before descending to cross the Kashawa Khola and finally, we climb again through terraced fields to the village of Mamankhe.

The walk starts with an easy climb to Yamphudin along a track which contours the hillside above the Kabeli Khola. The path has several ups and downs as we cross the ridges and stream beds that make up the valley sides. Generally, the route is flat and the river eventually becomes level with the trail, a couple of hours before Yamphudin. At last, we can stop to bathe in one of the clear pools within this beautiful river. It is truly an idyllic spot. After lunch by the river, we complete the day’s walk to Yamphudin, the most remote settlement in this area and the last village we will see until we reach Ghunsa. It is a charming place tucked away beneath the ridge of Deurali Danda that we cross next.

Beyond Yamphudin the trail ascends a steep spur, a gentle introduction for what will come. Leaving villages behind we trek through pleasant forest, stopping for lunch in a meadow capturing fine views of the north and south. A steep descend to the river an interesting bridge across the Omje Khola to our campsite in Chitre.

Starting the day with 3 hours of steep ascent to the crest of the Deurali Danda in dense forest most of the way. From the 3,230 m pass we see Jannu, definitely closer! We descend across some steep and exposed areas before entering the forest again. The sharp descent through beautiful forest continues down into the valley of the Simjua Khola. Across the interesting-looking and challenging wooden bridge is Tortongn, a camping place with numerous rock shelters amid towering conifers. The steep hills make today a tough 6 to 7 hours trekking.

Today we follow the river through a more beautiful forest, the conifers giving way to the rhododendron forest. The valley climbs fairly steeply, with the day progressing the trees become more stunted and scattered, giving us glimpses of the snow-capped giants ahead and the massive snout of Yalung Glacier. Just before Tseram the towering heights of Kabru and Rathong peak start to peep over the moraine. Camping at Tseram, a grazing area, the night temperatures will remind us that we are really gaining height.

This is a shorter day’s walk up the final 600m to Ramche where the trail to Kanchenjunga South turns dangerous. The scenery is magnificent as we ascend past the snout of Yalung Glaciers into a series of ablation valleys, which gives easy walking and good camping. A frozen lake, clear streams and views of Koktang, Rathong and Kabru are the highlights of this stroll. Expect to feel the altitude today.

Our first close encounter with Kanchenjunga. Following the valley round to see the stunning south face of  Kanchenjunga and Jannu. We get across the Yalung Ri Glacier and continue by a sweeping curve, at Oktang, 4,730 m, suddenly we are confronted with the southern wall of the mountain. This vast ridge forms a cirque over 15 kms long, nowhere less than 7,500 m high and with three main summits of Kanchenjunga at 8,420 m, 8,586m, and 8,474 m! It is a breathtaking mountain panorama and especially impressive is Jannu while observing the glaciers flowing from its east face.

This extended part will take you to the high altitudes. It requires determination. The crossing of high passes requires good weather, and of course perfect logistic support. Expect to get acclimatized with the altitude today.

Yalung Glaciers and a series of valleys, give good walking and perfect camping. A frozen lake, clear streams and magnificent views are the highlights of this stroll.

We trek down the valley, passing the turn off to the high and challenging Labsang La route to Ghunsa and the north side of Kanchenjunga. This pass is rough and dangerous, especially for porters so we take the more southern set of passes, beginning with the Mirgin La. After an initial steep climb and several false summits we reach Mirgin La. Apart from the magnificent Jannu on the horizon are Makalu, Gyakung Kang, Everest, Lhotse and Chamalang. To the south, it is possible to see down to the Terai, a panorama worth the effort. Our campsite will be beyond the pass, after 6 to 7 hours tough walking.

Although there are four more passes, there is little descent between them, so in effect it is a high scenic area. After lunch the descent brings us to Lamba Sumba Kharka, where there are more views of the awesome Southwest Face of Jannu. From Kharka the going is easy again down a pleasant forested trail to the village of Ghunsa, where we camp in the village. Ghunsa is a picturesque Tibetan village; prayer flags flutter from the wooden houses and there are two monasteries, a welcome sight after the many days of wilderness. One of the local specialties’ is ‘Tongba’, a curious alcoholic drink. A jug or large bamboo cup is filled with fermented millet seed and boiling water pored over. The flavour and alcohol seep though and you drink it with a special straw. You might need a drink after the tough 4- to 6-hour walk.

Gradually the trail ascends to south of the Ghunsa Khola and crossing flood plains while emerging on a pasture situated at the north side of the river. A steep climb to a slope from where it crosses a slide and then descends to Lakepo. A short climb from here to the village of Kambachen 4,040 m.

Today we spend acclimatizing to high altitude. It also doubles up as a rest day and can be used for a short morning hike to explore the area around Kambachen. Those who feel the urge should be able to catch up on their laundry. Otherwise, a good book should get you through the day perfectly. It is essential to acclimatize to the higher altitude as you have been spending a lot of time at lower altitudes.

From here there are good mountain views of the peaks near Kanchenjunga which are visible. You can hike up the ridge above the village for better views or take a day hike to Jannu Base Camp. The Nepali name for Jannu is Kumbakarna.

A gradual climb through rocky fields gets you to Ramtang at an elevation of 4,240 m then crossing northwest of the Kanchenjunga Glacier you reach Lhonak, which is on a sandy plain near a dry lakebed. You will camp between the boulders here to stay out of the wind. There are beautiful mountain vistas all around. Water is very scarce in Lhonak and you will need to use only as much as absolutely necessary.

The main Kanchenjunga peak is only visible from Pang Pema, which is the base camp for expeditions on Kanchenjunga. From Lhonak, the trail gradually ascends across the plain but soon gets steeper as it follows the moraine. Pang Pema is at a height of 5,140 m.

A climb of 200 m or 300 m on a morning hike up a ridge, north of Pang Pema, provides a great vantage point with views of Kanchenjunga, Wedge Peak, the Twins and Tent Peak. As usual, the descent goes faster and you can reach Kambachen the same day.

More descents thru magnificent sections of forest as long as we make Amjilosa tomorrow. From Ghunsa an hour down we pass through Phole, a village in two parts. The upper section houses Tibetan refugees who are well established, the second is the winter village of Ghunsa. Further down is Yangswa, a great and warm camp.

Initially, we pass thru the beautiful forest opening out to steep, grassy hillsides where Amjilosa is perched.

After a short climb, we begin the steep descent that will take most of the day. We reach the joining of the Tamur and Ghunsa Kholas.

We cross the Simbu Khola, which originates from Kanchenjunga’s south base camp, the Khola that we followed up from Torontan. It is pleasantly warm at these low altitudes and cardamom grows freely in the moist shaded forest. Crossing numerous small tributary streams we reach Chhirwa, a village set among large boulders. We camp in a field out of the village. This is an easier day.

Traversing in an out of minor valleys, we pass thru a succession of picturesque villages on our way to Suketar, reaching around late afternoon.

Enjoying your last glimpse of the mountains you have recently visited one last time on the 30-minute Scenic flight back to Kathmandu.